Coda's Kit - Black Limba Bolt - the SQL

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re: Coda's Kit - Black Limba Bolt - the SQL

Postby DesmoBob » Tue Aug 30, 2016 8:33 pm

It's BBE!!!!! :D

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re: Coda's Kit - Black Limba Bolt - the SQL

Postby Praiser » Wed Aug 31, 2016 3:46 am

:shock: :applause: :drool:
That looks AWESOME!!!
Really nice work. Really!
So looking forward to the POP it's gonna have when the top coat goes on.
John

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re: Coda's Kit - Black Limba Bolt - the SQL

Postby Coda » Wed Aug 31, 2016 9:51 am

First coat of Tru-Oil is on.

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I like how the grain is popping. Is that a hint of flame?

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The non-stained black limba really darkened up.

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First coat of many... :D

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I really like the Tru-Oil. I did another woodworking project using the dyes and the oil as a lead-up to this guitar project. That was on a piece of cherry and the Tru-Oil really made it come alive - flame, 3-D effect and really dazzling colors.

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You can't really mess up the oil too bad - you just wipe it on and smooth it out. A little goes a long way - with the exception for the first coat, which the wood (especially the end grain) gobbles up.

For the last project I sanded every 4 coats or so. I look forward to seeing how the oil builds up on the black limba, which has really open grain. I'll keep you posted.
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re: Coda's Kit - Black Limba Bolt - the SQL

Postby skully13a » Wed Aug 31, 2016 10:19 am

Lookin' good! :D
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re: Coda's Kit - Black Limba Bolt - the SQL

Postby Coda » Fri Sep 02, 2016 2:38 pm

Coat 4. It's getting shiny. And flamey - I didn't know black limba could be flamey. :think:

If you've been following this (possibly the worlds longest) series of build threads, then a ways back I posted some pics of black limba that looked reminiscent of koa. Trying to match that look has been my GAS-quest all along, and I'm pretty happy with what I'm seeing so far.

From the Gallery - my favorite 'koa-esque' black limba:

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Another, but not as much:

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My girl:

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re: Coda's Kit - Black Limba Bolt - the SQL

Postby Coda » Tue Sep 06, 2016 3:11 pm

Welcome back! I took a break for the long weekend. Coat 4 was hard as a rock, as planned - so it was time to sand. I 'lightly' went over everything with 400 grit wet-or-dry paper. The Tru-Oil sanded easily and became very smooth very quickly. The white sanding dust wiped right off with a clean terrycloth rag.

Coat 5 went on beautifully. I switched from paper towel to a dauber made of a 3" square of white cotton t-shirt fabric with a ball of paper towel wadded inside because I was getting paper towel lint in the finish. Once the dauber was loaded up, it was like coloring with a magic marker. I wish I'd been doing it this way all along. Live and learn.

After the sanding and the 5th Tru-Oil coat the guitar absolutely glows. I'm giddy like a little kid to finish this guitar and play it, but this finish keeps getting better and better, so I know it's worth the effort and the wait. :wall: :drool:

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As much as I love the Tru-Oil finish for the body and headstock, I'm a tung oil devotee on all my Carvin/Kiesel guitar necks. I bought a bottle of Hope's Pure Tung Oil, which I will use on the neck once the headstock overlay is completed.

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So here's some crazy weird science for anyone that's still reading my drivel... These finishes - Tru-Oil and Tung Oil - can self-combust. :shock:

Both of these products heat up as they dry. If you ball up a rag or a paper towel that's been used to apply the finish, it can get hot enough to catch fire as it dries. Even though it's a pain in the butt, it's recommended that you open up the rags and paper towels you use and lay them flat, in a single layer to dry. You're welcome! :D
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re: Coda's Kit - Black Limba Bolt - the SQL

Postby Praiser » Wed Sep 07, 2016 4:04 am

Looking SO good there, Coda! Can't wait to see this one all come together.
My BK50 is slowly progressing also, but my plan is to do a full build sequence when done.

There are MANY products that can self combust if left in rags like that.
The Stain, Poly, and wiping varnish I've used all have the same warning on them.
It's also an issue in some of the products that are used in the factory I work at.

Y'all be safe out there! READ. THE. LABEL!

Keep them pics coming my friend!
John

LB75AP, LB70P, BK50, BK50F, BK40, C780
PB100, PB200 (With BX500 head and 1x15 ext Cab)
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Rogue Fretless, Ibanez ABG, Dobro Bass
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re: Coda's Kit - Black Limba Bolt - the SQL

Postby Coda » Thu Sep 08, 2016 5:59 am

^^ Thanks John! Heading down now to put on coat #6.
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re: Coda's Kit - Black Limba Bolt - the SQL

Postby Coda » Fri Sep 09, 2016 6:12 am

A couple of coats later and the guitar still looks basically the same. In the interest of keeping the pics coming, here's some pics of my 'rig'.

Disclaimer: Yes, I am O.C. I leave off the 'D' because I don't consider it a disorder - it just takes me longer to do things. :)

I started finishing the guitar using these Bench Cookie finishing cones, but they were making little impressions in the relatively soft black limba. There's a mark on the face of the guitar that's going to be hidden by the bridge, so no worries - but I decided to hang the guitar body for the rest of the finishing project to prevent this from happening more.

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I wanted the guitar to turn freely but not spin. This threaded hook eye into an angle brace did the trick. I can tighten it down if I need to, but it stays in place really well just under the weight of the body.

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I made an extension out of a steel bar (1/8", I think) cut and bent so the guitar body hangs about 3" off my work surface.

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This is just the right height for me so I can see and reach the top of the horns, and also have enough room to reach under the body to finish the butt end. The hook makes it easy to detach the guitar handle so I can flip the body over and spot check or smooth the finish on the bottom, where the oil sometimes runs or pools.

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One of my favorite shop 'tools' is this articulated desk lamp. The base broke, so I drilled a hole in my bench top and stuck it there. This thing has been indispensable for me for at least 20 years.

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Between the lamp being almost infinitely adjustable and the guitar body being able to rotate, hand applying the finish is relatively easy. The light being able to constantly adjust to the right angle is especially helpful because, as the guitar finish gets more glossy, it's harder to see where the new coat is applied. When the lamp is adjusted at a sharp angle to the guitar body, it also makes it much easier to see runs or missed spots.

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re: Coda's Kit - Black Limba Bolt - the SQL

Postby Coda » Fri Sep 09, 2016 6:17 am

Ready... set... daub!

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re: Coda's Kit - Black Limba Bolt - the SQL

Postby Coda » Fri Sep 09, 2016 6:23 am

Some outdoor progress shots after coat 6...

Sunlight

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The grain is filling in, but not as much as I expected. I like it!

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Shade

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Re: re: Coda's Kit - Black Limba Bolt - the SQL

Postby GuitFiddle » Fri Sep 09, 2016 6:49 am

Coda wrote:
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Your tru-oil plate is grinning and obviously thrilled that you brought it a toy ghost to play with.

This build is coming together beautifully, great work!
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re: Coda's Kit - Black Limba Bolt - the SQL

Postby skully13a » Fri Sep 09, 2016 6:51 am

Nice. That's gonna look good! :wink:
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Re: re: Coda's Kit - Black Limba Bolt - the SQL

Postby Coda » Fri Sep 09, 2016 10:23 am

GuitFiddle wrote:Your tru-oil plate is grinning and obviously thrilled that you brought it a toy ghost to play with.

:laughhard: We think alike. (I almost Photoshopped googly eyes on the plate.)

Thanks for the encouragement GuitFiddle and skully!
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re: Coda's Kit - Black Limba Bolt - the SQL

Postby DesmoBob » Fri Sep 09, 2016 5:10 pm

I like your OC-ness and ingenuity.

When I removed my motorcycle front suspension, I made motorcycle "swing" out of pipes & ratchet straps to suspend the front end. Cheaper than an actual hoist.

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re: Coda's Kit - Black Limba Bolt - the SQL

Postby apedrape » Sat Sep 17, 2016 7:21 am

lookin good coda....... :applause: :applause: :applause:

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re: Coda's Kit - Black Limba Bolt - the SQL

Postby Coda » Sat Sep 17, 2016 11:14 am

With the body and headstock finishing done, the final assembly went quickly. I followed the instructions in the Kiesel Bolt Guitar Kit Instructions for the most part, with a little variation. Here's a step-by-step chronology:

Headstock masked to keep the tung oil off the Tru-Oil, and to keep the fretboard from absorbing unevenly:

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I put about 4 coats of tung oil on the neck over 2 days - going on heavy and rubbing off the excess before each new coat. The final tung oil treatment was applied with 1500 grit wet-or-dry polishing paper and really rubbed in until the maple was absolutely smooth to the touch.

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I chose to apply one light coat of tung oil to the rosewood fretboard. I applied it sparingly with my fingertip and really rubbed it in well, and then immediately wiped away the excess. The Carvin instructions say that it's not necessary but it can't hurt. (Their instructions are for ebony.) As lightly as I put it on, it was almost too much. The tung oil kept bleeding out of the rosewood for the next 2 days. No biggie - I just kept wiping it way. It eventually found a good balance.

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Since I recessed the neck mounting plate, I had to shorten the screws. I drilled some starter holes in a piece of hardwood and then drove the screws in so the tips were sticking out a little more than the depth of the neck plate.

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Rough grinding, using the surface of the wood as my depth guide:

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I finished the ends with a fine tooth file. Having the screws embedded in the hardwood kept the threads in shape so I could get a clean, flat finish on them.

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Another advantage to filing the screws while embedded in the hardwood was that the process of unscrewing them really cleaned up the threads. These came out perfect, and went into the existing thread impressions I had made in the neck mounting holes when I originally screwed on the neck to mark the mounting plate cutout.

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re: Coda's Kit - Black Limba Bolt - the SQL

Postby Coda » Sat Sep 17, 2016 11:16 am

Time to spread out that big ol' box o' parts that I've had in storage all these months!

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Tuners & TRC installed.

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Copper shielding tape applied.

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The instructions pointed out a tip that's important but not intuitive. You need to overlap the tape onto the surface of the guitar so it makes contact with the metal shielding on the underside of the pickguard, completing the shielding. It's not shown in the photos, but I rested the pickguard on the guitar and roughly marked the edges with masking tape, so I didn't go past the pickguard dimensions and make the tape visible when the guitar is assembled.

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I hate this plastic almost as much as I hate glitter, and almost totally disassembled the pickguard to get it all off.

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Hammer head taped to protect the trem posts when they are installed. They went in easily.

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Vintage tremolo installation.

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Yes, they sure look like drywall screws.

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Neck attached! It's really starting to look like an instrument.

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Strings on. 9-42.

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I forgot to mention it earlier, but I asked for the end strap button hole NOT to be drilled. I went with a 2 button (3 if you count the horn) approach. The dual butt-buttons give me a choice of where to connect, with about a 4" difference to account for varying strap lengths. Also - I'm ALWAYS setting my guitars down on the floor, leaning them up on a wall or whatever. 2 buttons keeps it from tipping and turning.

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Done! :D

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re: Coda's Kit - Black Limba Bolt - the SQL

Postby Coda » Sat Sep 17, 2016 11:19 am

CT624 - SH445 - Bolt+ - SCB7 - Vader7 - DC125 - Bolt Kit

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re: Coda's Kit - Black Limba Bolt - the SQL

Postby skully13a » Sat Sep 17, 2016 11:33 am

:shock: :shock: :shock: Looks amazing. Great job, Coda. 8)
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